Sunday, July 17, 2011

How to Install Replacement Windows in Your Home


Step One: Measure your rough openings

The first thing you need to do is measure the rough openings of all the windows you want to replace. What is a rough opening? It's the width and height of the rough framed opening. Your windows are actually slightly smaller than the rough opening so they will fit and have a little room for adjustments. The way you measure your rough openings is to remove the wood or drywall surrounds and the casing (if any) from around the window. Once the surrounds are removed, you'll see the framing lumber. Measure the dimensions between the framing lumber from the header to the sill and from one side to the other. This is your rough opening.

Step Two: Order the windows

When you order you windows, tell the supplier that you have the rough openings. He will allow for the extra room needed to install the window. So order based on rough openings. The width is always stated first, then the height.

Step Three: Remove the old windows

Once your new windows arrive, it's time to remove the old windows and install the new windows. The easiest way to remove the old windows is to cut the siding around the old windows, remove that narrow piece of siding, nd remove the window. Most circular saws have a base that's 1-1/2" wide. Just set the saw blade depth for the thickness of your siding plus an 1/8", and cut around the old window with your saw base against the old window frame. This will make a cut about 1-1/2" around the perimeter of the window. Remove that piece of siding. Then using a cats paw, pull the nails which were driven through the flange of the old window. The old window should pop out easily once the nails are pulled. It's easier and lighter to remove the old windows if you first remove the slider units.

Step Four: Install the new windows

After you have removed a window, install the new one. Do one window at a time, so you don't have a bunch of open windows. Plus if you need to stop for any reason, you can without worrying about rain or bugs coming in uninvited. Before you install the new windows, remove the screens and slider units. This will make them lighter and easier to handle. Once the window is in place, re-install just the sliding unit. This is necessary to?ensure that the window is installed correctly and operates smoothly. Leave the screens out until the entire installation process is complete. Doing so will help prevent the screens from getting ripped or damaged during installation. With the window in the hole, let it rest on the sill. Check the window's bottom frame for level. Shim if necessary, but make sure you use enough shims to properly support the bottom window frame. A shim should be used at least every 12" along the bottom. Now check to see that the window is centered in the rough opening. If it is, have your helper (or you, if you're outside) drive a few nails or screws through the bottom window flange into the framing. Next, use a short level and check the window side frames?to make sure they're?plumb and tack with a few nails or screws. Install the sliding unit to make sure it operates smoothly and shuts and locks properly. If not, pull the nails or screws and adjust the frame slightly to correct this. Once the slider works correctly, nail or screw the flange completely. Fasten only the side and bottom flanges. The top flange should never be fastened. This allows the header above the window to flex if needed.

Step Five: Install trim around the new window

If your siding is T-111 plywood type, you need to fill the void around the window with plywood the same thickness as the T-111 siding. Most older T-111 siding is 5/8" thick. Rip down some 5/8" CDX plywood and install it in the void. Apply a generous bead of exterior caulking before you install the filler piece. Then cut some exterior grade, primed 1"x 4" cedar or SPF wood to trim around the window. Apply another generous bead of good caulking between the filler and the new window frame before you fasten the trim pieces. Caulk around the window frame again after the trim is in place.

If you siding is lap or shingle siding, use 5/4" or 1-1/2" thick trim. Take a piece of the trim you're using and hold it against the window frame. Draw a line along the outside of the trim and cut on this line. Remove the siding pieces and install the trim directly over the window flange. Apply caulking before and after installing the new window trim. Next, you want to re-install the interior surrounds and casing. If your old ones were looking bad, now would be a great time to install new ones. It costs a little more, but it's worth it. Your brand new windows will make that old trim look even worse. Now you can paint the exterior window trim and install the screens. Enjoy your new windows!

Here are some final tips:

Use eye protection when making the saw cuts, especially when cutting around the old window. When you're cutting overhead, the saw dust can really come down on you.

Always use galvanized nails or screws to fasten the window flange. Non-galvanized fasteners will bleed and eventually rust, even if you try to paint over them.

Use a good quality caulking, but don't use silicone caulk. It is not paint-able, so you'll have a heck of a time trying to keep paint adhered to it.

Try to get someone to help you with?your window replacement project. Some windows are large and heavy, plus you'll need someone on the inside and outside while you install the windows. And don't force the old or new windows. Glass can't take much force, and you don't want any broken glass flying around. Be careful!




The author is a professional contractor who's installed hundreds of replacement windows.



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