How to Install a Bay Window

The first step in any job is to make sure you have the proper tools available for the job. In addition, if you are enlarging the space the previous window is in, or if you are cutting a hole to make a completely new window, you will need two by fours as "cripple studs" and other framing that may be needed. Then you need to follow the steps to a proper installation:

1. Determine exactly how you want the window placed in the wall and remove the existing window. Using the measurements of the new window, draw the outline on the outside of the house. This will show you where you need to cut. With your circular saw, cut the required opening.

2. Build a frame for the new window. You may have to cut through existing studs and install a new header, sill, jack studs

and cripple studs.

3. Put in support braces. Bay windows are usually pretty wide, so you need to use the number of braces accordingly. A five

foot window, for example, will need at least two braces, a wider window three or more.

4. You will need an assistant to lift the window and set it in place. You balance the window on the support braces and slide it

into the opening. Put in shims to level the window perfectly, and then anchor it in place by nailing it down.

5. Place the roof frame over the bay window and nail it into place. Insulation must be put in between the roof and the top

of the bay window, using the insulating material of your choice. Attach the roof sheeting to the frame and then put down the

roofing paper. Put in drip edges and flashing, then put shingles on the roof of the window.

6. Fill insulation around the bottom of the window between it and the wall of the house. Attach a skirt bottom that will serve

to seal the window on the underneath.

7. All of the edges should be sealed with outdoor grade silicone caulking to keep the window airtight and waterproof.

This is the basic list of installation steps for a bay window. The steps have been abbreviated to give you an idea of what

steps you need to be prepared for, but if you buy a preassembled window, it will include detailed step by step instructions.

The best way to insure that you have a properly installed window is to follow these instructions to the letter. NO shortcuts!

Your project will be faster and easier in the long run.

I asked two friends to help with the project and that helped make the

project go faster, especially since we have done projects together before. In one afternoon, we had removed the old window

and put in the rough framing for the new window. We covered the hole with plywood for protection overnight, and started

working early the next day. By the end of the second day, the window was in, including the roof and skirting. The following

day I was able to seal up the outside and complete the interior trim. OUr prediction was true; we picked the ideal spot to

install a bay window. It was a charming touch to the outside of the house, and on the inside of the house it was a

conversation piece in the room. It definitely added character to the room and we know it will add to the resale value of the

house, since this is a feature that has been shown to be very desired by home buyers.

Peter Wilson's articles can be discovered on various online sites tied to information on bay window curtains. You can discover his observations on bay windows and bay window curtains at http://www.replacement-windows-tips.com

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Steps to Install Bay Windows In Your Home

If you're looking to install bay windows into your home you'll need a few tools. Here's what you need.

- A straight edge, it's best to use a framing square to serve both purposes.

- A tape measure for obvious reasons

- A couple of crow bars for prying

- A miter or circular saw for cutting your window out

- You'll need a drill and bits to fasten your bay window securely

- A heavy duty stapler

- A Level

- A pair of tin snips

- Utility knife

- A caulking gun

- A picture of a bay window that you'll want to model yours after

You'll need some materials as well. These include support brackets, shingles, some roofing paper, roofing nails, fiberglass and silicone caulking insulation (look for exterior grade).

You will need two by fours for additional framing if you're creating a new space in the wall as your window.

Here are the installation steps you'll be taking.

You'll have to first establish the position in the wall for the window. If there's an existing window remove it. Next measure the bay window, then mark on the outside of your house the opening that you'll need for the new window. Now cut the opening with your circular saw.

Next you'll begin framing the new window. This includes cutting through any pre-existing studs and inserting a new header, a rough sill, cripple studs, and the jack studs.

Now it's time to put in the support braces. For a window of up to 5 feet wide, you'll need about two support braces. Anything wider will require three.

Okay, it's time to set your window in place. Slide the bay window into the newe opening using the support braces. You'll have to shimmy the new window into place to get it as level as possible.

The next step is to build the window roof. Nail the roof frame into place on top of the new bay window. Fill in any space with insulation. Before covering with roofing paper, you'll have to fasten down the roof sheeting to the window frame. Now install drip edges, flashes, and begin to shingle.

Time to put in the skirting at the bottom of the window. Fill it with insulation and then fasten the skirt, which will seal the underside of the window. Now just seal it all with silicone.

Though this is an abbreviated, this is the basic run down of the steps involved to install a bay window. When you buy the window unit, complete steps will surely be given in the instructions. Always read and follow the instructions to avoid headache.

I was fortunate enough to have two friends give me a hand. I knew that I work well with these guys. We popped out the window and had framed the new one by the end of the same day we started. We plugged the hole with some plywood through the night, and jumped back on the job the next day.

By evening on Sunday the new window was installed and roofing and skirting was finished. I easily finished sealing everything up myself on Monday, plus got the trim work done on the inside.

We do not regret for a minute the spot we chose for our new bay window. It looked tremendous from both outside and in. After my wife slapped up a bay window curtain it finished off the job perfectly.

Now were selling our house, and have many prospects due to the bay window alone.

Peter J. Wilson published mainly for http://www.replacement-windows-tips.com , an online site with topics around bay window curtains , decorating and other areas. You might find out more about his comments on bay windows at http://www.replacement-windows-tips.com .

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How to Install Replacement Windows in Your Home

Step One: Measure your rough openings

The first thing you need to do is measure the rough openings of all the windows you want to replace. What is a rough opening? It's the width and height of the rough framed opening. Your windows are actually slightly smaller than the rough opening so they will fit and have a little room for adjustments. The way you measure your rough openings is to remove the wood or drywall surrounds and the casing (if any) from around the window. Once the surrounds are removed, you'll see the framing lumber. Measure the dimensions between the framing lumber from the header to the sill and from one side to the other. This is your rough opening.

Step Two: Order the windows

When you order you windows, tell the supplier that you have the rough openings. He will allow for the extra room needed to install the window. So order based on rough openings. The width is always stated first, then the height.

Step Three: Remove the old windows

Once your new windows arrive, it's time to remove the old windows and install the new windows. The easiest way to remove the old windows is to cut the siding around the old windows, remove that narrow piece of siding, nd remove the window. Most circular saws have a base that's 1-1/2" wide. Just set the saw blade depth for the thickness of your siding plus an 1/8", and cut around the old window with your saw base against the old window frame. This will make a cut about 1-1/2" around the perimeter of the window. Remove that piece of siding. Then using a cats paw, pull the nails which were driven through the flange of the old window. The old window should pop out easily once the nails are pulled. It's easier and lighter to remove the old windows if you first remove the slider units.

Step Four: Install the new windows

After you have removed a window, install the new one. Do one window at a time, so you don't have a bunch of open windows. Plus if you need to stop for any reason, you can without worrying about rain or bugs coming in uninvited. Before you install the new windows, remove the screens and slider units. This will make them lighter and easier to handle. Once the window is in place, re-install just the sliding unit. This is necessary to?ensure that the window is installed correctly and operates smoothly. Leave the screens out until the entire installation process is complete. Doing so will help prevent the screens from getting ripped or damaged during installation. With the window in the hole, let it rest on the sill. Check the window's bottom frame for level. Shim if necessary, but make sure you use enough shims to properly support the bottom window frame. A shim should be used at least every 12" along the bottom. Now check to see that the window is centered in the rough opening. If it is, have your helper (or you, if you're outside) drive a few nails or screws through the bottom window flange into the framing. Next, use a short level and check the window side frames?to make sure they're?plumb and tack with a few nails or screws. Install the sliding unit to make sure it operates smoothly and shuts and locks properly. If not, pull the nails or screws and adjust the frame slightly to correct this. Once the slider works correctly, nail or screw the flange completely. Fasten only the side and bottom flanges. The top flange should never be fastened. This allows the header above the window to flex if needed.

Step Five: Install trim around the new window

If your siding is T-111 plywood type, you need to fill the void around the window with plywood the same thickness as the T-111 siding. Most older T-111 siding is 5/8" thick. Rip down some 5/8" CDX plywood and install it in the void. Apply a generous bead of exterior caulking before you install the filler piece. Then cut some exterior grade, primed 1"x 4" cedar or SPF wood to trim around the window. Apply another generous bead of good caulking between the filler and the new window frame before you fasten the trim pieces. Caulk around the window frame again after the trim is in place.

If you siding is lap or shingle siding, use 5/4" or 1-1/2" thick trim. Take a piece of the trim you're using and hold it against the window frame. Draw a line along the outside of the trim and cut on this line. Remove the siding pieces and install the trim directly over the window flange. Apply caulking before and after installing the new window trim. Next, you want to re-install the interior surrounds and casing. If your old ones were looking bad, now would be a great time to install new ones. It costs a little more, but it's worth it. Your brand new windows will make that old trim look even worse. Now you can paint the exterior window trim and install the screens. Enjoy your new windows!

Here are some final tips:

Use eye protection when making the saw cuts, especially when cutting around the old window. When you're cutting overhead, the saw dust can really come down on you.

Always use galvanized nails or screws to fasten the window flange. Non-galvanized fasteners will bleed and eventually rust, even if you try to paint over them.

Use a good quality caulking, but don't use silicone caulk. It is not paint-able, so you'll have a heck of a time trying to keep paint adhered to it.

Try to get someone to help you with?your window replacement project. Some windows are large and heavy, plus you'll need someone on the inside and outside while you install the windows. And don't force the old or new windows. Glass can't take much force, and you don't want any broken glass flying around. Be careful!

The author is a professional contractor who's installed hundreds of replacement windows.

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