A Guide to Heavy Commercial Architectural Windows

Heavy commercial architectural windows can be found on a variety of both low- and high-rise buildings. When the correct style and materials are used, architectural windows can add interest and strength to the facade of any commercial building while keeping functionality.

Appearance

Architectural windows are popular throughout the country due to their ability to accommodate a number of different building styles while providing a sensible and functional addition to the structure. When selecting heavy commercial windows, builders have the ability to customize the color, size, shape, material and hardware. This allows owners to easily preserve the historic look and feel of their building or modernize and update its style. The ability to customize the design to match local architectural characteristics, combined with the ease of cutting-edge production capabilities, makes architectural windows an effective tool for builders and business owners.

Materials

Aluminum is the most common material used in the production of heavy commercial architectural windows. Fiberglass and vinyl, two of the more popular residential window materials, are not used due to their lower strength and inability to stand up to the stresses of the building.

Aluminum

Aluminum windows are the most popular heavy commercial window and for good reason. This material is strong, durable and can handle the stresses that commercial windows often face. Additionally they can have a painted, unpainted, or anodized finish for many aesthetic changes.

Wood

Wood windows can be installed in low-rise commercial buildings but aren't used often. Because of the appeal of aluminum, wood windows are used only under special circumstances. For buildings that require a natural, traditional appearance wood is a good option because of its variety of grain, color, and durability. Unlike other materials, wood windows require a lot of maintenance.

Window Categories

There are two common categories of heavy commercial architectural windows: sliding and projected. A third category, fixed frame windows, can also be found on commercial and industrial buildings. The category of sliding windows is compromised of sliders, single hung, and double hung.

Sliding Windows

Sliders are typically thought of as windows that move horizontally. They are an excellent choice for commercial grade window systems because they come in a variety of styles and allow for many optional features to be added on. For example, most glass companies will allow a builder to integrate internal blinds into sliding windows.

A single hung window has two sashes, one on the top of the window and one on the lower section. The top sash does not allow movement while the lower section, or sash, of the window is movable. This means the bottom of the window is able to slide in a vertical upward direction while the top of the window remains stationary. These are typically better sealed than double hung windows. Contrary to single hung windows, the double hung style allows both the lower and upper sashes to slide up and down vertically allowing a user to also open the top half of the window.

Fixed windows, as the name implies, do not have any moving sashes. The lack of moving parts makes this type incredibly effective at keeping air and water out. In many industrial buildings fixed windows are used in combination with sliding windows.

Projected Windows

Projected is another category of heavy commercial architectural windows. The projected category consists of casement and awning windows.

Those that hinge at the side are referred to as casement windows. They offer a large amount of air flow into a building due to the way they hinge. The downside of casement windows is that they tend to be exposed to rain and snow more often than other windows because of how far they open.

Windows that are hinged at the top and open outward at the bottom are called awning windows. They provide users the comfort of an open window while keeping protection from wind and rain.

Strength

Industrial and commercial buildings are often exposed to extreme weather such as earthquakes, hurricanes, and storms. If the windows do not hold up under these extreme conditions the entire building can be compromised. When choosing a heavy commercial architectural window, structural strength, solar heat control, and optical properties are the three quality factors that should be considered.

Commercial buildings require windows that provide exceptional strength and soundness to protect from weather conditions. Look for windows that have been structurally tested to withstand high winds. Because most commercial buildings have a significant amount of internal heat, it is typically best to chose windows with low solar heat gain. This prevents workplaces or schools from solar radiation which could add additional heat. Lastly commercial buildings require sunlight without glare. To allow light in without glare, commercial windows typically have reflective or tinted glass.

Heavy commercial architectural windows offer numerous options and possibilities that make it easier for schools, industrial facilities, low- and high-rise buildings to maintain the integrity and functionality of the building. Having a general knowledge of these windows will better prepare you for choosing the correct style for your building.

Since 1969 Litex, Inc. has been in continuous production of high quality architectural windows systems. We manufacture heavy commercial grade and architectural windows that are used in a variety of applications such as high, mid, and low-rise buildings, schools and various commercial and industrial facilities. Our philosophy at Litex is to provide complete prompt delivery of high quality architectural windows and products that best serve the customers' needs. Visit http://www.litex.com for more information.

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Vinyl Replacement Windows - A Basic Guide For Installation

New vinyl replacement windows can offer many energy efficient features with virtually no maintenance. A popular upgrade, homeowners can cut heating bills and enjoy smooth easy opening windows while increasing the value of their home. Once measured correctly, replacement windows can then be installed relatively quickly and easily.

Many features are available in new windows and can be purchased custom to fit your openings. Installing them requires very few tools, many of which you may already have. The list should include;

o Utility knife

o Flat bar

o Broad chisel

o Hammer

o Screw gun

o Caulk gun

o Putty knife

o Level

o Step ladder or extension ladder

o Safety glasses

A short list of materials should include;

o Shims

o Interior and exterior caulk

o Drop cloth

o Batt insulation or window and door expansion foam

Prepare a work area to remove the old windows by removing furniture and any window treatments around the old window. Be sure to lay a drop cloth or plastic down to work on, the old window sashes can be very dirty. Begin by removing the old trim around the perimeter of the window. This can be accomplished with a broad chisel or flat bar and hammer. Sometimes the trim has been caulked or painted in and it may be necessary to score the edge with a utility knife before removing. Carefully work the molding out and save the pieces for reinstallation. A common method is "walking" the trim out. Start at an edge and slowly pry a little at a time down the length of the board. With the trim removed the lower window sash can now be removed. Older windows were often fitted with a pulley and rope system. Cut the rope close to the window with your utility knife, letting the weight drop in the void. There should be enough rope to grab when you remove the pulley system later.

To remove the top sash, the parting bead, sometimes called a check stop must be removed. This stop runs between the two sashes. It can be pried out with a dull chisel or flat bar without concern, as it will be discarded. Often the bead will not come entirely out leaving some in the groove it rests in, that's fine as long as the remaining wood is flush with the jamb. Sometimes a small piece of wood is nailed under the window to keep it up in place (making it a single hung window) or there may be more counter weights (double hung). Remove either of these by prying the wood stop out with a flat bar or cut the counter weight rope as before. Care should be taken during this step as there is nothing holding the upper sash in place when stops are removed or the rope cut.

With both sashes removed, check the opening for any obstructions. The wheels that the counter weight rope rested on should be removed and discarded, along with any nails or debris. If possible, pull the weights out and stuff the void with batt insulation. Inspect the outside molding called blind stops. It should be in good shape and continue all the way around the window frame to the sill. This is what your new window will rest on to keep it from falling out. Vacuum the area and remove all the old window sashes, counter weights, parting bead and pulley system from the area, saving the inside window trim.

Unwrap the new window and put any hardware that came with the window and the expansion strip to the side. It should be noted that some units come with a header expander. This article does not include installing the header expander and if included should not be necessary if window is correctly measured and the exterior stops are continuous.

Locate the predrilled screw holes in the side jambs. Normally there are two or three per side, large windows may have holes in the top also. Cut the batt insulation to fit in the window well, approximately 1" thick and place it in the well. Making sure the window sashes are locked, lift the window and place bottom edge in the well. Then push the top of the window into place against the blind stops for a dry run. If the window is extremely tight, it may be best to not push it all the way in; it can be very difficult to take back out. This is where careful measuring pays off. Remove the window and set to the side. Generously caulk all the way around the inside surface of the blind stops. Install the window the same way as done in the dry run. Make sure the unit is centered in the opening and pressed against the blind stops. Now check for level by resting the level on the jamb not the window sash. Window sashes float in guides in the jamb and can give incorrect readings. Shims can be used for adjustments between the unit and the window opening. Use the screws that came with the unit and drive the top ones in first again check for level. Do not overdrive the screws. The lower screws can now be driven and checked for level one last time.

After screws are set, unlock the window and check the operation of the sashes. They should move easily up and down and then lock without much effort. If not, fine tune the screws and shims to adjust for correct operation. If you have tall windows, there may be adjusting posts on the sides to keep the jamb from bowing. Even if the jambs aren't bowing now, adjust these out so they can keep the jambs from moving in the future.

Window and door formulas of expansion foam are great way to fill any gaps and ensure an airtight seal. Care must be taken to lock the window when using expansion foam products and keep them locked and shut during the curing process. After 12 hours, the window can be opened and operated. Do not install trim before curing is complete as any excess foam needs to an escape route to expand. If the installer chooses batt insulation, it can be stuffed in any gaps with a putty knife. It is important not to stuff too much in, as it will bow the jambs and decrease R value.

The trim saved from the tear out phase can now be reinstalled. If new trim is chosen, it will need to be mitered and cut to size. Nail the trim tight to the new window. Caulk between the new window and trim, then between the trim and casings to provide an air tight seal. After the caulk dries, paint can be applied to complete the interior work.

The expansion strip, sometimes called a filler strip should now be cut to size and installed on the outside. This flexible vinyl strip is normally included to compensate for the pitch of the existing window sill and the lower exterior edge of the vinyl window. This strip may need to be cut with a utility knife to match the opening both in length and height. The correct sized filler can now be snapped in a groove at the bottom of the window unit. The installed strip should be tight as possible to the exterior sill and sides of the window opening.

Finally, it's important that no precipitation can penetrate the window opening and must be sealed. Weatherproof caulk must be applied continuously around the perimeter between the vinyl window and the house. Take care there are no gaps for water to infiltrate. With the exterior sealed against the elements and the inside window treatments reattached, you're done. That's it! Enjoy your smooth operating, maintenance free and energy efficient vinyl windows.

The author is a licensed contractor in the state of Michigan and owns and operates PHB Construction LLC.

Paul H. Bilodeau http://www.grandrapids-remodeling.com

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Window Replacement Guide - Learn About Maximum Window Efficiency

Before you can appreciate just how much a window can save you on your utility bills, you must understand the actual working of an energy efficient window. This window replacement guide will attempt to help you in this understanding. The theory is fairly straightforward: windows that are designed to be energy efficient are capable of slowing the heat transfer process between the inside of your house and the outdoors. We all know that heat travels from warm to cold spaces. In this way, the window becomes an agent of energy loss. During the winter, the warmth inside the house tends to dissipate out through the window and during the warmer season, the hot air outside tries to rush into your house via the same window as well.

Windows are central to the heat transfer process because they don't provide as good insulation as other parts of your wall assembly. For example roofs, floors and walls are better insulated against heat loss. The old single pane windows or inadequately installed double pane windows, or cracks on the window or frames are all prime candidates to facilitate this process. To exacerbate the matter, even the best-sealed windows also allow some form of heat loss through the glass, as the glass is a natural conductor of heat through conduction. This windows replacement guide will explain the technologies used to lower air flow and subsequently heat transfer.

These are the glazing technique, low-U values, low-E coatings, as well as gases like argon or krypton between panes. As a result, these efficient windows will block the cold of winter away, while keeping you cool during the hot season. Additionally, this guide will also deal with how to avoid the condensations formed inside the windows. The performance indicator of an energy-efficient window is down to the construction of the window frame and a spacer material, and the object used to separate the main window glass and the individual frames of glass within the pane.

If you are serious in obtaining a LEED certification for your household, then it is imperative for you to know that correct windows choice can enhance your qualification. LEED accreditation is awarded based on window's size, solar heating gain, U-factor and a host of other considerations.

Glazing

Glazing is the word used to define the glass in a window. A double-glazed window describes two panes window; triple-glazed contains three. An "energy-glazed" window has a layer of lamination and a gas filled within the panes of glass. The reduction in solar gain goes is proportional to the numberamount[/size] of glazing. If the solar gain is overly high, carpet, furniture and floors tend to fade easily and you need more energy for cooling to offset the solar gain; still, a decent amount of solar gain is necessary to counter the cold of winter. A double-glazed can trigger a 10 percent reduction in solar gain; triple-glazing by 20 percent. This windows replacement guide urges that households with single-glazed or single-pane windows upgrade to double- or triple-glazed windows. It will make a world of difference for your utility bills.

Low-E

Low-emissivity (low-E) coating also restricts the amount of energy transfer through the window. This coating is a transparent lamination that applies itself onto the window pane directly. It can be coated on either the inside surfaces (surfaces on opposing ends) or the exterior. Low-E coatings facilitates passing through of sun light but can cut down the heat transfer process via the window glass. In addition, businesses have also made available low-E squared and low-E cubed, which are effectively the extensions of low-E coatings and denotes two or three layers of coatings of low-E respectively.

There are two variations of low-E coatings, i.e. soft and hard types. Soft-coat low-E is comparatively not as robust and it can disintegrate under prolonged exposure to moisture and air. Conversely, while hard low-E coatings are able to withstand harsher conditions, their energy efficiencies are not comparable to those of soft coatings. As per guideline provided by U.S. Department of Energy, low-E coated (both soft and hard variations) windows are typically priced around 10% - 15% more than conventional windows, which more than compensate the 30 to 50 percent enhancement in energy loss reduction. Low-E coated windows have come a long way from its early days of make-to-order status to become standard on windows.

U-Value

As pointed out earlier in this windows guide, R-value defines the efficiency of insulation of ceilings, walls, etc.; its reading is in direct relationship with the extent or effectiveness of the insulation. However, it is not practical to use R-value alone to measure windows insulation. They are different in the sense that they are subject to several external factors, such as wind, rain, sunlight, inside and outside air temperatures, just to name some of them. It is only natural that a different measurement system is applied on to windows. This measurement system is called U-value, also known as U-factor.

The U-value here is a more useful calculation of heat loss via the window, or heat transfer. (R-values may still be listed on windows on sales, but the values have no real significance as they are just readings on the center portion of the window, thus not an accurate measurement for the entire window.) When one is referring to U-value, the lower the reading, the higher the energy efficiency is. In cold weathers, U-value of.35 or lower is preferred. Windows with multi-glazing and have krypton or argon filled are also effective in reducing heat loss and generally have low U-values.

Solar Heat Gain Coefficient(SHGC)

The SHGC is an indicator used to measure how well solar radiation is blocked from the sun. Lower reading of SHGC means less solar heat is transmitted across. The ENERGY STAR program includes guidelines and criteria for doors and windows for three climate zones in the U.S. Manufacturers would be in a better position to tell if the product is ENERGY STAR-certified or not. For ENERGY STAR certification criteria, all products are required to be rated, certified, and labeled for both SHGC as well as U-value according to the procedures of the NFRC (or short for National Fenestration Rating Council) or able to satisfy the ENERGY STAR qualification criteria in at least one of the climate zones.

Gavin Berman is a regular contributor to the website http://www.EnergySmartDesign.com. He regularly writes about ways to make your home more energy efficient, through innovative design.

To view the original article with images please visit the Window Replacement Guide at Energy Smart Design.

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